Armani's Tailoring, Zegna's Luxury Define Milan Fashion Week 2024

_{Models walk the runway at the Zegna collection show during the Milan Fashion Week Menswear Autumn/Winter 2024/2025 on January 15, 2024 in Milan. (Photo by GABRIEL BOUYS / AFP)}

The Milan Fashion Week menswear previews for the fall-winter 2024-25 season concluded with a spotlight on Italian fashion icons Armani and Zegna. Notably, the relatively light schedule reflected the decision of some brands to prioritize coed shows during the upcoming womenswear week scheduled for the following month.

Giorgio Armani's Runway Show: The runway show began with an arresting photograph of Giorgio Armani's piercing blue eyes, symbolizing his nearly 90-year-old legacy and enduring influence on the fashion empire he has guided for almost half a century. Armani's collection showcased his signature relaxed tailoring, adorned with geometric patterns and rich textures in a dreamy assortment of soft neutrals.

Herringbone and checks were not merely patterns but also textures in knitwear, contributing to an off-duty aesthetic. Armani delved into ski and snowboard wear, presenting baggy snow pants with an iridescent sheen, paired with parkas for the slopes and bulky knitwear for après-ski moments. Helmets, goggles, and gloves completed the winter sports-inspired looks.

For eveningwear, Armani introduced velvet suits complemented by vibrant pink or blue vests and turtlenecks. Velvet ties added a touch of opulence to business suits, with the ties slightly arching out of the suit jacket for a smart and distinctive silhouette. Quilted bags maintained the collection's softness, while a striking dark leather midi coat with a furry leopard print liner added a touch of glamour.

Armani, reflecting on his creations, stated, "These are all things you know of Armani. I don't think that men need to be stunned every time by some strained element," addressing Italian journalists backstage.

Zegna's Cashmere Oasis: At the Zegna runway, orangey tufts of precious raw wool descended from the ceiling, creating a visually stunning pile reminiscent of fall leaves. Artistic director Alessandro Sartori's collection for fall-winter 2024-25 focused on the versatility of cashmere, showcasing its ability to change surface, shape, and texture.

The Zegna silhouette was relaxed and carefree, offering easily layered pieces in a palette of natural monochromes, including mustard, granite, ink blue, autumnal brown, opaque black, and white. Boxy knitwear with three-quarter sleeves was layered over mohair trousers in a heathery blue-brown blend. Knit trousers were expertly seamed at the crease for a polished appearance.

Pullovers transformed into scarves wrapped around soft suits layered over cardigans. Collarless jackets featured blocks of texture, providing a contemporary edge to the collection. Sartori emphasized the brand's work at its Oasi wool mills and archives in Italy's Piedmont region, focusing on reshaping materials and redefining shapes.

"I am building new classics, but they should be generous, effortless, durable, garments that you wear in many different types of styling. But most of all very chic,'' Sartori shared after the show, encapsulating Zegna's commitment to timeless elegance and innovation.