Classic Men’s Suit Makes Office Comeback with Relaxed Fits: 5 Tips

Photo : Bloomberg

In the ever-evolving world of fashion, the classic men's suit remains a steadfast staple, showing resilience even in the face of disruptive trends. The rise of streetwear, the shift toward casual office attire, and the global pandemic that pushed many into athleisure have not rendered the suit obsolete. Instead, it has undergone a refreshing reinvention that aligns with modern sensibilities.

According to menswear writer Jeremy Freed, the COVID-19 pandemic played a role in this resurgence. He notes that many grew tired of sweatpants and are now excited to dress up again. The evolution of dress codes means that suits are no longer viewed merely as obligatory office wear; instead, they have transformed into something novel and enjoyable to wear.

Designers are responding to this shift by reimagining traditional suits with a contemporary twist. Collections for fall 2024 showcased a variety of interpretations, from the relaxed silhouettes of Saint Laurent to the minimalist designs of The Row and Zegna's hybrid workwear styles. This new take on suiting, while distinct from the baggier styles of the '90s, brings an air of ease and rakish charm, merging elements of Italian flair, West Coast informality, and '80s Wall Street swagger.

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Smaller, innovative labels are leading the charge in this transformation. British brand Drake’s is known for its “cool professor” aesthetic, emphasizing classic European styles, while New York-based Muesercraft offers tailored classics with a twist. Stoffa, also located in New York, specializes in a unique blend of suit and loungewear styles, appealing to those seeking comfort without sacrificing style.

Jake Mueser, the proprietor of J. Mueser, observes that in recent years, the majority of people have been choosing a more relaxed silhouette for their suits. This trend reflects a broader industry shift toward more draped and relaxed fits. Freed highlights the emergence of tailoring shops, like The Armoury in New York and Anthology in Hong Kong, which are incorporating informal cuts into their collections. He emphasizes that the current trend draws inspiration from the 1980s and Armani’s drapey silhouette while also prioritizing comfort after years of wearing athleisure.

The resurgence of the suit also aligns with a natural trend cycle. After a long period dominated by slim fits, led by designers such as Thom Browne and Hedi Slimane, fashion is once again gravitating toward more generously cut silhouettes. Data from Google Trends shows a significant increase in searches for double-breasted suits and pleated pants, indicating a growing interest in these classic styles.

Billie Eilish’s recent appearance on the October cover of Vogue, wearing an oversized pale yellow suit from Gucci, further highlights this shift. Derek Guy, a popular social commentator, explains that just as the slim silhouette emerged as a reaction to the bagginess of the '90s, the current looser silhouette represents a response to the restrictive fits of the past. The new look aims to break away from the archetypal working-stiff image portrayed in shows like Industry, where young professionals in finance opt for drab, uninspired attire.

As fashion looks back to the timeless elegance of Armani's designs from the 1980s and early '90s, the future of men's suits is increasingly embracing a spirit of individuality and self-expression. In this evolving landscape, the classic suit is not merely surviving but thriving, inspiring a new generation to reimagine its potential.

To adapt to this trend, consider several strategies to refine your suiting style. Begin with high-waisted pants, which can instantly elevate your look and provide comfort. Opt for pleats, especially if your body type accommodates them, as they can add dimension and sophistication to your silhouette. Choosing garments made from quality wool can enhance the structure and drape of your outfit, lending a polished finish to your look. When it comes to jackets, consider the double-breasted style, which can create a striking visual impact and impart a sense of volume.

For those starting to experiment with this looser aesthetic, darker colors like navy or charcoal can be more forgiving while maintaining a sophisticated air. Lastly, complementing a relaxed suit with a well-fitted shirt can create a balanced ensemble that embodies the modern sophistication of the classic men's suit.

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