Bagan's Tourist Boom Turns to Gloom Amid Myanmar's Ongoing Crisis

Bagan, Myanmar's ancient temple city, faces profound economic hardship as tourism declines sharply amidst ongoing conflict and the lingering effects of the pandemic.

Bagan, renowned for its domes and spires marking a serene landscape amidst Myanmar's turbulent civil unrest, has long been a cornerstone of the country's tourism industry. Following Myanmar's gradual opening to the world after decades of military rule eased in 2011, Bagan became a cherished destination for travelers seeking an authentic Southeast Asian experience away from more mainstream spots.

However, the tourism sector suffered severe blows first from the global COVID-19 pandemic and then from the military coup in February 2021, which plunged Myanmar into widespread conflict. In the aftermath of the coup, international visitor numbers plummeted drastically, with approximately 200,000 tourists recorded in the year following the takeover, compared to 3.4 million just five years earlier.

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Bagan, spanning 50 square kilometers along the Ayeyarwady River, boasts centuries-old Buddhist pagodas and temples dating back to the 11th to 13th centuries, remnants of its glory days as the capital of an ancient empire. Despite its historical richness, many hotels and eateries now lie shuttered, and local guides and vendors find themselves without work. The once bustling hilltops where tourists gathered to watch the sunset over the ancient city are now eerily quiet, with more souvenir sellers than visitors.

Local vendors lament the decline, noting that tourists are rare, and those who do visit are cautious about spending. The situation is exacerbated on the river's opposite bank, where sporadic clashes between the military and pro-democracy forces have become a regular occurrence, with gunshots often echoing across the landscape.

The economic toll is evident as the local currency, the kyat, continues to depreciate against the dollar amidst international sanctions. Despite the junta's efforts to attract foreign tourists and their spending, the reality on the ground tells a different story. While the junta claims over one million foreign arrivals in 2023, up from the previous year's figures, neighboring Thailand received about 28 million visitors in the same period, underscoring Myanmar's struggle to regain its tourism footing.

In a bid to improve its image and attract tourists, Myanmar has courted visitors primarily from China and Thailand, as reported by state media. However, tensions surfaced in late 2023 when the junta criticized a popular Chinese film for allegedly tarnishing Myanmar's reputation with its portrayal of human trafficking and scams in Southeast Asia.

Locals in Bagan express deep concern over the economic and security challenges they face. Many businesses have closed due to the inability to cover rent and staff salaries, leaving families without income sources. Despite the hardships, residents remain resilient, hopeful for a brighter future where tourism can thrive once again, providing much-needed stability and prosperity to their beloved ancient city.

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