Paris Fashion Week blends punk attitude with historical nods.

Photo-JULIEN DE ROSA

At Paris Fashion Week, designers Andreas Kronthaler and Louise Trotter unveiled their latest collections, each blending historical elements with contemporary aesthetics. Against the backdrop of a rain-soaked Saturday, the luxury world witnessed a spectacle of contrasts as the audacious spirit of punk collided with quiet luxury and historical elegance. The runway displays blurred the lines between rebellion and refinement, presenting collections that navigated through time with evocative nods to medieval serfs and minimalist aesthetics reminiscent of the 1990s.

Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski's showcase for Hermès showcased explorations of "quiet luxury," a concept deeply intertwined with the brand's ethos. In her latest interpretation, Vanhee-Cybulski delved into darker tones, evoking the reflective hues of the late French painter Soulages with brooding black leathers. Against a backdrop of a black starry night, the pieces exuded a fierce demeanor, balanced by the collection's soft cuts and meticulous detailing. Buckles and ribbing on skin-tight pants demonstrated the designer's skillful blend of Hermès' craftsmanship with innovative design, while muted flashes of opulence added a poetic touch to the restrained elegance.

Meanwhile, Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood brought forth a whimsical blend of nature, historical references, and punk spirit. Led by K-pop star Sandara Park, the show transported the audience back in time with contemporary fusions channeling the essence of medieval serfs. Eccentric performances and standout pieces like conical bra corsets and garments with assertively large shoulders embodied Westwood's iconic punk ethos. The runway served as a canvas for eccentric, eye-catching looks that melded historical references with audacious punk spirit, reaffirming the brand's mastery in crafting rebellion throughout.

Carven, under the creative direction of Louise Trotter, presented an elegant and sophisticated collection that seamlessly blended the brand's 1950s origins with a minimalist aesthetic reminiscent of the 1990s. The show opened with a statement coat, setting the stage for a collection characterized by dimensions and perceptions. Trompe l'oeil effects and oversized jackets draped casually over bare skin showcased the collection's subtle allure, revealing sophistication in every detail.

Overall, Paris Fashion Week witnessed a convergence of historical inspiration and modern innovation, as designers pushed boundaries and redefined luxury on the runway. Each collection presented a unique interpretation of fashion, reflecting the diverse influences and creative visions shaping the industry today.

March 4, 2024 12:52 p.m. 4946

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